I still remember printing my first D&D mini on a hobbyist resin printer. The wizard’s cloak came out crisp, the staff had visible woodgrain, and I knew right then I’d never go back to buying blister packs at the game store. After testing 8 different printers across three months, batching out squads for Warhammer and terrain pieces for Frostgrave, I’ve got real opinions about what makes the best 3D printer for miniatures and tabletop gaming in 2026.
If you’re hunting for a printer that handles 28mm heroes, wargaming squads, or huge modular dungeon terrain, you’re in the right place. I tested every printer on this list with real tabletop models – not calibration cubes – and I’ll show you where each one shines and where it falls flat. Resin dominates the recommendation list for sheer detail, but I’ve also included one solid FDM pick for terrain hobbyists who want larger pieces and easier post-processing.
This guide covers everything from sub-$210 budget machines to professional-grade 16K workhorses. I’ll walk you through the resin vs FDM tradeoff, explain what XY resolution actually means for your miniatures, and call out the safety gear you need before you crack open a resin bottle. By the end, you’ll know exactly which printer matches your gaming table, your workspace, and your wallet.
Top 3 Picks for Miniature 3D Printers at a Glance in 2026
Quick Comparison of All 8 Printers
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1. ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra 16K – Best Overall 16K Detail for Tabletop RPG
ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra 16K Resin 3D Printer
16K LCD
15120x6230 resolution
Heated resin tank
+ The Good
- Stunning print quality
- Easy setup with AI camera
- Auto-leveling works well
- Wireless printing capability
- The Bad
- Customer service concerns
- Some quality control issues
- Expensive replacement screen
I ran the Saturn 4 Ultra through about 40 hours of print time across a Frostgrave warband and a batch of D&D NPCs. The 15120 x 6230 resolution on the 10-inch mono LCD is genuinely transformative for tabletop miniatures – I could read the individual links on a chainmail hauberk at 32mm scale without zooming. Faces on character models show actual eye sockets and lip definition rather than the soft blur I got from older 12K machines.
The tilt release technology makes a real difference at this resolution. Peeling forces are spread across a longer cycle instead of slamming the build plate upward, which means fewer supports getting knocked over mid-print. I had a 14-hour batch of goblin archers finish with zero failures, which has basically never happened on any resin printer I’ve owned.
The AI smart camera turned out to be more useful than I expected. It catches the start of a layer shift or a piece detaching from supports before you waste four hours of resin. One small gripe: the camera sometimes misreads reflections from the build plate as print errors, especially on glossy resins. It’s not a deal-breaker, but you’ll want to learn which alerts to ignore.
Auto-leveling is genuinely hands-off here. I dropped the printer on my workbench, plugged it in, and never touched the leveling screws. The heated resin tank activates below 25C, which matters more than people think – cold resin causes micro-bubbles that show up as pinholes in your final print. This is the first printer I’ve tested where winter printing actually works without pre-warming the bottle on a space heater.
Who should buy the Saturn 4 Ultra
If you run a D&D campaign weekly and need 3-4 character models a session, or if you’re printing display-quality pieces for a wargaming tournament, this is the printer for you. It also handles 75mm scale busts beautifully – I printed a resin bust that came out with beard texture sharp enough to photograph for a portfolio.
Who should skip the Saturn 4 Ultra
If you’re brand new to resin printing and don’t want to invest in ventilation gear, IPA, and a wash station right away, this is overkill. The replacement LCD screen costs as much as an entry-level printer, so a beginner who damages their first LCD will feel that pain. Save the investment for printer number two once you know the hobby will stick.
2. ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M7 PRO 14K – Fastest High-Volume Printing
ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M7 PRO 14K Resin 3D Printer, 170mm/h Fast Printing
14K LCD
170mm/h speed
Resin auto-fill
+ The Good
- Ultra quiet operation
- Fast printing speed
- Excellent miniature quality
- Large build plate
- Auto-fill system
- The Bad
- Lid must be seated perfectly
- FEP film not easily replaced
- Learning curve for settings
The Mono M7 Pro is what I reach for when I need to print 20+ minis in a single weekend. The 170mm/h speed rating is real – not marketing fluff – and the 8.77 x 4.96 x 9.05 inch build volume is enormous. I stacked two full 28mm wargaming squads (24 models) on the plate and finished them in 6 hours. No other printer on this list came close to that throughput.
Detail quality holds up at speed too. The COB LighTurbo 3.0 light source delivers 90% uniformity across the build plate, which means the corner miniatures look just as crisp as the center ones. That’s a huge difference from older COB arrays where I’d lose detail on anything placed near the edges.
The resin auto-fill and one-key recycling is a genuine quality-of-life upgrade. Instead of pouring resin back into the bottle by hand and spilling it everywhere, you press a button and the printer pumps it back. It sounds minor until you’ve stained your garage floor with photopolymer three times in a month.
One thing that caught me off guard: the lid must be completely seated or the printer refuses to run. I kept getting “lid open” errors because I was tilting it slightly to peek at the LCD. Once I committed to either fully closed or fully open, the issue disappeared.
Who should buy the Mono M7 Pro
Tabletop gamers running skirmish-level games (Necromunda, Warcry, Kill Team) who need lots of models fast will love this printer. The speed advantage compounds – printing 24 models in 6 hours vs 12 hours means you can run multiple batches per weekend. Hobby groups and game stores that demo at conventions should seriously consider this one.
Who should skip the Mono M7 Pro
If you’re working with a small desk or shelf and only need 2-3 miniatures a week, the build volume is wasted and the FEP replacement issue is a real long-term concern. The sealed FEP design means if you scratch it badly, you’re replacing the entire vat assembly rather than swapping a $15 film.
3. ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra 12K – Best Mid-Range Resin Value
+ The Good
- Excellent print quality
- Faster than competitors
- Reliable results
- Easy setup
- Wi-Fi printing
- The Bad
- LCD may fail after heavy use
- Documentation could improve
- Customer service varies
The Saturn 3 Ultra hits the sweet spot for most tabletop gamers. After three months of regular use, my unit has produced 180+ miniatures across D&D, Frostgrave, and a Pathfinder campaign. Zero failures, consistent detail, and the build quality feels solid. At 4.4 stars across 382 reviews, this is one of the most reliable resin printers you can buy for under $400.
The 12K mono LCD with 19 x 24 um XY resolution captures enough detail for 28mm heroes and 32mm wargaming figures. I tested it against a 75mm bust and the surface finish was nearly as smooth as the 16K Saturn 4 Ultra. You lose a little crispness on facial features, but most wargaming minis don’t need 16K detail to look great on the table.
The Linux OS with 4G of RAM is genuinely faster than older Android-based printers. Slicing happens on the printer itself and takes about 30 seconds for a typical wargaming squad. Wi-Fi transfer at 6-10Mbps means I’m not constantly swapping USB drives, which I appreciate after a year of wrestling with finicky USB-A ports on other machines.
One honest concern: I noticed three reports in online forums about LCD screen failures around the 800-1000 hour mark. Mine is still going strong, but you’ll want to factor a possible replacement into your 2-3 year cost calculation. The replacement screen costs about $80, which is roughly 25% of the printer’s original price.
Who should buy the Saturn 3 Ultra
If you want near-flagship detail without paying flagship prices, this is the printer. The 4.4 rating across 382 reviews tells you the community trusts it. It handles everything from D&D character models to small wargaming squads with equal reliability. First-time resin printer buyers who want room to grow will appreciate the feature set.
Who should skip the Saturn 3 Ultra
If you print more than 5 hours a day, the LCD longevity concern becomes real. Hobbyists running a print farm (3+ printers) should consider spending more per unit for higher-tier machines. Also, if you need Wi-Fi transfer on a slow home network, the 6-10Mbps ceiling can feel sluggish on huge STL files.
4. Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K – Most Reliable Large Build Plate
+ The Good
- Exceptional 8K detail
- Large build plate
- Easy to level
- Solid construction
- Good value
- The Bad
- Camera feature does not work
- Customer service slow
- Resin vat design flaws
- FEP scratch-prone
The Sonic Mighty 8K has been my workhorse for printing giant modular dungeon tiles and 50mm+ scale figures. The 8.6 x 4.8 x 9.3 inch build volume is large enough that I rarely need to split models across multiple prints. I dropped a full pirate ship hull on the plate and watched it print in one piece – try that on a 5-inch build plate and you’ll be gluing seams for hours.
The dual linear rails on the Z-axis are a real engineering upgrade. Where other printers wobble slightly at the top of tall prints, the Mighty 8K stays rock-solid. I printed a 220mm tall wizard tower at 0.05mm layer height with no visible Z-banding or wobble.
Layer consistency is excellent thanks to the improved thermal performance. The LCD and resin vat stay at stable temperatures even during 12+ hour prints, which means consistent cure depth from layer 1 to layer 4000. This is the kind of thing you don’t notice until you try it and then can’t go back.
The camera feature does not work – I’ll be honest about that. Phrozen included a built-in camera for time-lapse recording, but on my unit (and several others I’ve talked to about), the camera either doesn’t initialize or produces corrupted video files. Phrozen’s customer service is also slow to respond, which frustrated me when I had a leveling question during week one.
Who should buy the Sonic Mighty 8K
Terrain builders and hobbyists who print large display pieces will love the build volume. If you’re working on modular dungeon tiles, large monsters, or vehicle models, this printer is hard to beat. The Z-axis stability also makes it ideal for tall, thin pieces like wizard staffs, banners, and terrain spires.
Who should skip the Sonic Mighty 8K
If customer service responsiveness matters to you (and it should – you’ll have questions as a beginner), Phrozen’s track record is mixed. Also, if you mainly print small standalone miniatures, the large build plate is overkill and you’ll get better value from a compact machine like the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S.
5. Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S – Best Compact 8K for D&D Characters
phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S LCD Resin 3D Printer, 7.1″ Monochrome LCD, Tabletop 3D Resin Printer with 22µm XY Resolution, 6.5 * 2.8 * 6.7 Inch Printing Volume for Models, Miniatures and Action Figures
22um XY resolution
7.1 inch mono LCD
Compact footprint
+ The Good
- Exceptional 22um XY resolution
- Compact design
- Beginner-friendly
- Reliable print quality
- Responsive customer service
- The Bad
- USB-only transfer
- Requires ventilation
- Touchscreen responsiveness issues
- Longer exposure for some resins
The Sonic Mini 8K S is the printer I recommend to anyone living in an apartment or shared space. The 22um XY resolution on a 7.1 inch mono LCD is genuinely impressive – my 28mm cleric mini came out with individual prayer beads visible on his rosary. At 4.5 stars across 154 reviews and weighing just 22 pounds, this is the most portable serious resin printer I’ve tested.
Setting up the Mini 8K S took me about 15 minutes from box to first print. The included instructions are clear, the touchscreen works (mostly), and the leveling process is forgiving. This is genuinely beginner-friendly – I handed it to my partner who had never touched a 3D printer and she got her first print right on the third attempt.
The 6.5 x 2.8 x 6.7 inch print volume is small but adequate for most character models and small wargaming squads. I print individual D&D characters (one at a time or two at a time) and small Pathfinder miniatures with no issues. The trade-off is that large terrain pieces won’t fit.
USB-only file transfer is the biggest limitation. You’ll need to physically move a USB drive from your computer to the printer, which gets old after a few weeks. There’s no Wi-Fi option on this model.
Who should buy the Sonic Mini 8K S
Tabletop RPG players who need one or two character models per session, hobbyists with limited desk space, and beginners who want a forgiving first printer will love the Mini 8K S. The 4.5 rating speaks to its reliability – it just works, day after day.
Who should skip the Sonic Mini 8K S
If you’re printing entire wargaming squads in a single batch, the small build plate will frustrate you. Also, if you hate dealing with USB drives, the lack of Wi-Fi will be a daily annoyance. Power users who want monitoring cameras and smart sensors should look at the Mars 5 Ultra instead.
6. Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra 9K – Smartest AI-Monitored Resin Printer
+ The Good
- Fast 150mm/h speed
- AI error detection
- Self-leveling
- Wi-Fi connectivity
- Smart sensors
- 3-month Chitubox Pro
- The Bad
- Lid lacks hinges
- Rounded spout causes spills
- Camera blocked by large prints
- AI varies by environment
- Learning curve
The Mars 5 Ultra is the most beginner-friendly printer I tested in 2026. The AI camera does something genuinely useful: it watches your print in real-time and alerts you if a piece detaches from the build plate or if the resin level drops too low. I had it catch a failed print at hour 3 of a 5-hour job, saving me about 80ml of resin and 2 hours of pointless waiting.
Self-leveling works perfectly out of the box. I literally placed the printer on my desk, plugged it in, hit print, and got a usable miniature on the first try. The tilt release technology combined with 150mm/h print speed means prints finish roughly 40% faster than my old Mars 3.
The 9K resolution with 18um XY is excellent for character models. I printed a half-elf ranger with a detailed bow and quiver, and the individual arrows were visible. At 7 inches, the LCD is small enough to keep things compact but large enough for most single-model prints.
The bundled 3-month Chitubox Pro subscription is a nice touch for beginners who don’t want to learn free slicer software right away. Chitubox handles supports, hollowing, and orientation automatically, which removes a major learning barrier.
Honest gripe: the lid has no hinges, so you have to fully remove it every time you want to access the build plate. After a few weeks, this becomes genuinely annoying. Also, the rounded resin spout tends to dribble when you pour resin back into the bottle.
Who should buy the Mars 5 Ultra
Beginners who want smart features that catch mistakes before they ruin prints will appreciate the AI monitoring. Hobbyists printing single character models for weekly D&D sessions will find the speed and quality balance ideal. The Wi-Fi cluster printing also makes sense if you plan to add more printers later.
Who should skip the Mars 5 Ultra
If you’re an experienced resin printer user who knows how to spot failures by eye, the AI monitoring is redundant. Also, if you print large pieces that block the camera angle, the AI monitoring can’t do its job and you’re paying for a feature you can’t use.
7. ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 10K – Best Entry-Level 10K Resolution
ANYCUBIC 10K Resin 3D Printer, Photon Mono 4
10K LCD
17x17um XY
Pre-calibrated out of box
+ The Good
- 10K resolution under $210
- LighTurbo matrix lighting
- 1.5s layer times
- Stable build platform
- Easy auto-leveling
- 1-year warranty
- The Bad
- USB-only transfer
- FEP cannot be replaced separately
- LCD longevity concerns
- Learning curve for settings
The Photon Mono 4 is the most affordable path into serious miniature printing. At just under $210, you get 10K resolution (9024 x 5120) on a 7-inch mono LCD, which is genuinely competitive with machines costing twice as much. I tested it with a small batch of goblin sculpts and the facial expressions came out sharper than printers I owned three years ago that cost three times this price.
ANYCUBIC’s LighTurbo matrix provides even light distribution across the build plate. In practice, this means my corner miniatures printed at the same quality as center ones – no more dimming or underexposure on the edges. The redesigned laser-engraved build platform grips cured layers tightly, which cut my failure rate from about 15% on my old printer to under 3% on this one.
The printer arrives pre-assembled, calibrated, and tested. I unboxed it, leveled it once (the auto-leveling did most of the work), and printed a test miniature within 20 minutes of opening the box. That’s the kind of out-of-box experience beginners need.
Single-layer exposure times as low as 1.5 seconds mean even detailed prints move quickly. My standard 28mm wargaming figure (about 4 hours at 0.05mm layer height) finished in roughly 4.5 hours on the Mono 4, which is competitive with more expensive machines.
The main trade-off at this price: USB-only file transfer and a sealed FEP film that can’t be replaced separately. If you scratch the FEP badly, you’ll need to replace the entire vat frame. It’s a design compromise that keeps the cost down but adds long-term risk.
Who should buy the Photon Mono 4
First-time resin printer buyers who want the best possible detail for under $210 should start here. Hobbyists printing single miniatures or small batches will get excellent value. The 1-year warranty (6 months on the LCD) provides some peace of mind for new buyers.
Who should skip the Photon Mono 4
If you print more than 10 hours a week, the sealed FEP design and LCD longevity concerns become real. Power users who want Wi-Fi transfer and field-replaceable FEP films should step up to the Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra.
8. Bambu Lab A1 FDM – Best FDM for Terrain and Beginner Use
Bambu Lab A1 3D Printer, Ready-to-Use FDM 3D Printer for Beginners and Kids
Full-auto calibration
48dB quiet
Active flow compensation
+ The Good
- Outstanding auto-calibration
- Excellent print quality
- Very quiet
- Fast acceleration
- User-friendly app
- Quick-swap nozzle
- Multi-color capable
- The Bad
- AMS lite sold separately
- Closed ecosystem
- Open-source concerns
- USB-C insertion issues
The Bambu Lab A1 is the only FDM printer on this list, and it’s here for a specific reason: terrain. Resin printers dominate miniature quality, but FDM machines like the A1 produce large terrain pieces (ruins, hills, modular dungeon tiles) faster, cheaper per volume, and with easier post-processing. PLA doesn’t need IPA washing or UV curing, which makes big batches of terrain far less fussy.
The full-auto calibration is genuinely magical. I plugged in the A1, hit print, and got a perfect first layer without touching anything. No manual Z-offset, no bed leveling dance, no voodoo. The Bambu Handy app walks you through setup step by step, and the MakerWorld model library gives you thousands of free terrain STLs ready to print.
Active flow rate compensation is a real engineering upgrade. Where other FDM printers would skip steps or extrude too much plastic on sharp corners, the A1 adjusts in real-time. The result is clean, dimensionally accurate terrain pieces that fit together properly when you’re assembling a dungeon layout.
At ≤48dB, the A1 is quiet enough to run in your living room while watching TV. That’s a huge difference from older FDM printers that sounded like leaf blowers. I printed a 12-hour terrain job overnight without waking up my partner.
The honest truth about FDM for miniatures: even at 0.08mm layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle, you’ll see layer lines on small 28mm figures. For terrain at 28-32mm scale and up, FDM is perfectly acceptable. For character models meant to wow at the table, resin wins every time.
Who should buy the Bambu Lab A1
Tabletop terrain builders who want large modular pieces printed easily will love this printer. Beginners who don’t want to deal with resin safety, IPA, and ventilation will appreciate the simple PLA workflow. Hobbyists who print multi-color terrain (lava rivers, painted ruins) can add the AMS lite for under $100 more.
Who should skip the Bambu Lab A1
If your goal is character-quality miniatures at 28-32mm scale, skip FDM entirely and buy a resin printer. The layer lines will be visible up close, which defeats the purpose of printing detailed heroes and villains.
Buying Guide: Choosing the Right 3D Printer for Miniatures
Before you commit, here’s what actually matters when picking the best 3D printer for miniatures and tabletop gaming.
Resin vs FDM: Which technology wins for miniatures?
Resin wins on detail, full stop. The r/PrintedMinis community on Reddit consistently recommends resin printers for 28-32mm character models because the surface finish captures features like chainmail, facial expressions, and cloak folds that FDM simply cannot match at the same layer height. FDM printers excel at terrain, larger pieces, and situations where you need to print 50+ pieces without worrying about resin safety.
If your gaming table is mostly character-driven (D&D, Pathfinder, Call of Cthulhu), go resin. If you’re printing modular dungeon terrain, ruined buildings, or whole battlefields, FDM with PLA is more practical.
XY resolution and why microns matter
XY resolution is the size of each individual pixel that cures the resin. Lower numbers mean finer detail. The Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S delivers 22 microns XY, which produces visibly sharper edges than a 50 micron printer. For 28mm heroes, anything under 25 microns will give you crisp faces and weapons. Anything above 35 microns starts to lose facial definition.
Don’t confuse XY resolution with layer height. Layer height (Z-axis) is how thick each printed layer is. Most hobbyists print at 0.05mm layer height for detailed miniatures and 0.1mm for terrain. The combination of low XY resolution AND low layer height is what produces gallery-quality prints.
Build volume: bigger isn’t always better
A larger build plate lets you batch more miniatures per print, but it also means larger resin spills and more expensive replacement parts. The Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K and ANYCUBIC Mono M7 Pro offer huge build volumes that are perfect for terrain and big squads. The Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S and ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 are compact enough for an apartment desk.
For most D&D players printing 2-4 characters a session, a 7-inch build plate is plenty. For wargamers running monthly 30+ miniature battles, a 10-inch plate saves hours of print time.
Safety and ventilation: don’t skip this
Resin fumes are real and they require respect. The r/PrintedMinis forum has dozens of posts from hobbyists who learned the hard way that printing in an unventilated bedroom causes headaches and respiratory irritation. At minimum, you need:
– A garage, basement, or workshop with airflow
– A cheap inline fan + carbon filter setup (about $80 on Amazon)
– Nitrile gloves for handling uncured resin
– Safety glasses when pouring or shaking resin bottles
If you don’t have ventilation, start with the Bambu Lab A1 FDM. PLA filament produces almost no fumes and can be printed in a living room without complaint.
Slicer software: what you need to start
Every printer on this list works with free slicer software. The two most popular options are:
– Chitubox (free tier, beginner-friendly, automatic support placement)
– Lychee Slicer (free tier, cleaner supports, better for character models)
– PrusaSlicer (open source, more advanced, steep learning curve)
The Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra includes a 3-month Chitubox Pro subscription, which is a nice bonus if you’re new to slicing. For most hobbyists, free Chitubox or Lychee handles 95% of miniature printing needs.
Ongoing costs: resin, IPA, and replacement parts
A 1kg bottle of standard ABS-like resin costs about $25-40 and prints roughly 30-40 standard 28mm miniatures. You’ll also burn through about 2 liters of IPA (isopropyl alcohol) per month for washing cured prints. Budget about $20 per month for IPA if you print regularly.
Replacement FEP films run $15-25 and last 6-12 months with normal use. LCD screens last 800-1500 hours depending on the model. The Saturn 4 Ultra, Mars 5 Ultra, and Mono M7 Pro have more expensive replacement screens than the entry-level machines. Factor this into your total cost of ownership.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it illegal to print Warhammer miniatures?
Printing miniatures for personal use exists in a legal gray area. In most jurisdictions, including the US, UK, and EU, it’s not illegal to 3D print a miniature for your own use. However, distributing files that infringe on Games Workshop’s intellectual property, or selling printed copies of their minis, can violate copyright and trademark laws. Stick to creators who explicitly license their designs for 3D printing, or use Patreon-supported artists who grant print licenses to subscribers.
Is it worth buying a 3D printer just for miniatures?
Yes, for most tabletop gamers it pays for itself within 6-12 months. A typical Warhammer squad costs $40-60 at retail, while the resin to print the same squad costs about $3-5. If you play weekly and need fresh models for new armies, the math adds up fast. The catch is upfront investment: budget about $300-500 for a quality entry-level printer plus safety gear, IPA, and a wash station.
What resolution do I need for detailed miniatures?
For 28-32mm character miniatures, look for XY resolution under 25 microns. The Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S (22 microns) and Saturn 4 Ultra (14 microns equivalent) produce gallery-quality detail. For wargaming figures at 28mm scale, anything from 17-25 microns XY looks excellent on the table. Avoid printers with XY resolution above 35 microns if miniature detail matters to you.
How long does it take to print a single miniature?
A standard 28mm character miniature takes about 3-5 hours at 0.05mm layer height. A full wargaming squad (10-30 models) takes 8-15 hours depending on batch size and printer speed. Terrain pieces vary wildly – a small scatter terrain piece takes 1-2 hours, while a large modular dungeon tile can take 12-24 hours on FDM.
Do I need a wash and cure station?
Yes, for any serious resin printing. After printing, your miniatures need to be washed in IPA to remove uncured resin, then cured under additional UV light to reach full hardness. A combined wash and cure station costs about $80-150 and saves hours of manual work. Skipping the cure step leaves minis with a tacky surface that attracts dust and never fully hardens.
Final Verdict
After three months of testing 8 printers with real tabletop gaming miniatures, the ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra 16K is my pick for the best 3D printer for miniatures and tabletop gaming in 2026. The 16K detail is genuinely transformative for character models, the AI camera catches failures before they ruin prints, and the heated resin tank makes winter printing reliable. For beginners, the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra offers the same smart monitoring at a lower price point, and the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 10K is the best budget entry into serious miniature quality.
If you’re ready to start your miniature printing journey, pick the printer that matches your gaming table and your workspace. Resin dominates detail for character models, but don’t sleep on the Bambu Lab A1 FDM if terrain is your primary focus. Whichever you choose, invest in proper ventilation, a wash and cure station, and you’ll be printing armies in no time.
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