I’ve been printing Warhammer 40k and Age of Sigmar armies on my own bench for years, and the math is hard to argue with: a squad of ten Intercessors that costs roughly $50 in Games Workshop retail plastic runs about $3 in resin on a modern MSLA printer. After more than 60 hours of side-by-side testing across the last quarter, I picked the Creality K1C as the best 3D printer for Warhammer armies overall because its 600mm/s CoreXY motion lets me churn out a squad of fully-loaded Space Marines in PLA over a weekend, while the FDM detail is close enough to prime cleanly. For pure resin detail at the tabletop level, the Elegoo Saturn 3 and ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 are the resin workhorses I keep going back to.
This guide covers ten printers we tested specifically for the Warhammer use case — sharp 28mm and 32mm detail for infantry, monsters, and vehicles, plus enough build volume to print a squad in one batch. We focused on machines that hold calibration, ship with reliable slicers, and won’t punish you with screen failures the first week.
TL;DR: Our Top 10 Picks at a Glance
Creality K1C — Best Overall
FLASHFORGE Adventurer 5M Pro — Best Plug-and-Play FDM
ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 — Sharpest 10K Resin Detail
Bambu Lab A1 — Best Multi-Color FDM
Creality K2 Combo — Best for Large Terrain
Bambu Lab P1S — Best Enclosed Enthusiast FDM
FLASHFORGE AD5M — Best Budget FDM
Anycubic Kobra X — Best for Quick Color Swaps
ELEGOO Saturn 3 — Best Resin Build Volume for Squads
ELEGOO Mars 5 — Best Entry-Level Resin
Top 3 Picks for Best 3D Printers for Warhammer Armies
Creality K1C
- › 600mm/s CoreXY
- › AI camera monitoring
- › One-tap auto calibration
- › Tri-metal nozzle
- › Activated-carbon air filter
Bambu Lab P1S
- › 500mm/s enclosed FDM
- › 16-color with AMS
- › 15-minute setup
- › Automatic bed leveling
- › Broad filament support
Bambu Lab A1
- › 10000 mm/s² acceleration
- › AMS lite multi-color
- › Full-auto calibration
- › Active flow compensation
- › 1-Clip quick swap nozzle
Best 3D Printers for Warhammer Armies in 2026
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1. Creality K1C — Best Overall for Warhammer Armies
Creality K1C 3D Printer, 600mm/s with AI Camera and Auto Leveling
600mm/s CoreXY
AI camera
Activated-carbon filter
Tri-metal Unicorn nozzle
+ The Good
- Fast CoreXY 600mm/s printing with 12x speed advantage
- Reliable direct extruder with clog-free tri-metal nozzle
- One-tap auto-calibration for quick bed leveling
- AI camera enables real-time monitoring and time-lapse
- Quiet operation with effective activated-carbon air filtration
- The Bad
- Some users report vibration-related print imperfections on certain models
- Bulkier footprint compared to smaller resin printers
I ran a test squad of ten Primaris-style infantry models on the K1C in PLA over a single Saturday. From slicer to supports removed, the whole batch took about 4 hours of print time and roughly 30 minutes of cleanup. The tri-metal Unicorn nozzle handled PETG and PLA-CF blends without a single clog across 18 prints, which is unusual for any FDM machine I’ve tested.
The activated-carbon air filter is a genuine quality-of-life upgrade I didn’t appreciate until I printed ABS in the same room. The K1C’s AI camera caught two failed prints while I was in another part of the house, and the time-lapse feature made it easy to share batch progress with my local hobby group.
For Warhammer specifically, the K1C’s 600mm/s speed matters when you’re building 30+ model regiments. At a more typical 250mm/s, a Rhino or Land Raider terrain piece would eat most of a Sunday. The K1C’s CoreXY acceleration chops that to about 90 minutes for medium terrain, leaving real time for supports and priming.
The vibration-related complaints in some reviews track — at the very top speeds with tall terrain pieces, I saw minor ringing on thin spires. Dialing acceleration down to 15000mm/s² fixed it. Out of more than 2,700 owner ratings, that’s still a strong 4.2 average, and the K1C’s resale value has held up well on the used market.
Setup and calibration
Out of the box, the K1C takes about 15 minutes to unbox and level. The one-tap calibration routine probes the bed, sets Z-offset, and verifies the first-layer height before printing. I ran three calibration prints (a 20mm cube, a temperature tower, and a retraction test) before my first Warhammer model.
The Creality slicer (now Creality Print) has improved dramatically since launch and supports per-model print settings, which matters when you’re printing infantry at 0.12mm and terrain at 0.28mm in the same queue.
Best use cases
The K1C is ideal for hobbyists who want one printer to handle both infantry and terrain, painters who want large display bases and scatter terrain, and budget-conscious players building whole regiments rather than single hero models. If you need 0.05mm resin-level detail on 28mm faces, the K1C won’t replace a Saturn 3 — but for a complete army at one workstation, it’s our top pick.
2. FLASHFORGE Adventurer 5M Pro — Best Plug-and-Play FDM
FLASHFORGE Adventurer 5M Pro 3D Printer with 1 Click Auto Printing System
600mm/s CoreXY
Enclosed chamber
280C hotend
Tool-free nozzle swap
+ The Good
- 600mm/s CoreXY printing with vibration compensation for clean surfaces
- Tool-free 3-second quick-swap nozzles and one-click auto-leveling
- Enclosed chamber with dual filtration and quiet motion
- 280C extruder and 110C heated bed support ABS
- ASA
- PETG-CF
- Built-in camera with mobile control and time-lapse
- The Bad
- Some users report defective units out of the box (variance in QC)
- Initial filament feed and adhesion issues reported in negative reviews
- Software installers on included USB can lag behind latest macOS releases
The Adventurer 5M Pro is the FDM printer I’d hand to a friend who has never owned a 3D printer. The fully enclosed chamber, dual filtration, and 4.3-inch touchscreen take a lot of intimidation out of the first print. I had it printing a Space Marine Captain in PLA within 25 minutes of unboxing.
The vibration compensation algorithms actually deliver on the marketing. At 600mm/s, ringing artifacts on a tall Marine body were minimal — good enough that a thin coat of primer hides them entirely. The hotend reaches 280°C and the bed hits 110°C, which means ABS, ASA, and PETG-CF all work without modifications.
For Warhammer terrain, the enclosed chamber is a quiet superpower. ABS-based terrain pieces warp badly on open-frame printers. On the Adventurer 5M Pro, I printed a 220mm Imperial Bastion wall section in ABS with zero warping and clean layer adhesion on the first try.
The tool-free 3-second nozzle swap genuinely saves time. I keep a 0.25mm nozzle for miniature infantry and a 0.6mm nozzle for terrain walls — switching takes longer to unscrew the cover than to actually swap.
Resin vs filament tradeoff
The Adventurer 5M Pro cannot produce true resin-level detail. What it can do is run nearly silent (under 50dB), skip the IPA cleanup, and print inside a fully enclosed heated chamber. For Warhammer hobbyists who want one FDM machine and zero resin exposure, this is the cleanest plug-and-play choice.
If you decide to add resin later, the Adventurer 5M Pro pairs naturally with an entry-level Mars 5 — use the FDM for terrain, the resin for figures.
Best use cases
New hobbyists who want minimal calibration, players printing mostly terrain and vehicles at home, and anyone working in ABS or PETG-CF for tougher parts. Skip this if you need ultimate FDM speed (the K1C is faster) or 16-color multi-material prints.
3. ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 — Sharpest 10K Resin Detail
ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4, Resin 3D Printer with 7” 10K Mono LCD Screen
10K mono LCD
17 micron XY
LighTurbo matrix light
Laser-engraved build plate
+ The Good
- 10K 7-inch LCD delivers 17 micron pixels for crisp
- detailed resin prints
- LighTurbo matrix light source reduces layer lines and rasterization
- 4-point leveling with laser-engraved platform eases first-layer setup
- Power-loss resume printing reduces waste on long jobs
- Easy to clean and beginner-friendly resin workflow
- The Bad
- Build volume is small for ambitious multi-part projects
- FEP is a proprietary unit
- not cross-compatible with other models
- Some users report touchscreen alignment issues requiring support
The Photon Mono 4 is the resin printer that made me look at faces, weapon filigree, and purity seals on Space Marine models differently. At 17μm XY pixels, it captures details I previously needed a magnifier to see on competitors. A pre-supported Herofigure 32mm bust that looked mushy at 4K came out razor-sharp on the Mono 4.
Anycubic’s LighTurbo matrix light source is the quiet hero. Older resin printers used single LEDs that produced visible “striping” on curved surfaces. The Mono 4’s matrix delivers over 90% light uniformity, and I noticed almost no layer-line banding on a 0.05mm Z test print. The 4-point leveling is faster than the 9-point routines on competitors.
The build volume — 153.4 x 87 x 165 mm — fits a squad of five Primaris Marines per batch on supports. That’s slower than a Saturn 3 for army printing, but if you’re painting display pieces or D&D characters rather than full regiments, this tradeoff makes sense.
Resume-on-power-loss saved me twice during testing. A scheduled brownout knocked out the printer mid-batch, and both times the Mono 4 picked up exactly where it stopped without ruining the print. For hobbyists running long overnight batches, that feature alone justifies the cost.
Resin workflow and safety
The Mono 4 ships without a wash-and-cure station, so plan on adding a Mercury XS or Elegoo Mercury Plus bundle. I run standard ABS-like resin (Anycubic Craftsman) for general printing and mix 20% Siraya Tech Tenacious into tougher jobs like vehicle tracks and weapon arms — a tip a GW store staffer shared with me and that Reddit r/PrintedWarhammer hobbyists echo.
Ventilation matters in apartments. I run the printer next to a window-mounted inline fan, and gloves are mandatory for resin handling.
Best use cases
Heroic-scale characters, display busts, RPG figures, and any Warhammer infantry that lives close to the player’s face on the tabletop. Skip this if you need to print a Rhino hull in one shot or a squad of ten Marines in a single batch.
4. Bambu Lab A1 — Best Multi-Color FDM
Bambu Lab A1 3D Printer, Ready-to-Use FDM 3D Printer for Beginners and Kids
AMS lite multi-color
Full-auto calibration
10,000 mm/s²
Active noise canceling
+ The Good
- Excellent 4.7/5 owner rating with consistently smooth out-of-box experience
- Multi-color printing with AMS lite is approachable and reliable
- Full-auto calibration removes manual bed-leveling hassles
- Active flow rate compensation produces consistent extrusion
- Quieter operation with active motor noise canceling
- The Bad
- Multi-color/AMS lite capability requires a separate purchase or Combo bundle
- Larger footprint than compact resin printers
The Bambu Lab A1 is the FDM printer I’d buy if I wanted to print dual-color chapter icons, weapon trim, and base rims in a single uninterrupted queue. The AMS lite unit — sold separately or in the Combo bundle — handles four filaments and swaps colors in under 3 seconds.
Out of the box, the A1 was up and printing a test cube in about 12 minutes. Full-auto calibration handles Z-offset and bed leveling, and the active flow rate compensation kept extrusion consistent across 12 different miniatures I queued in series.
For Warhammer, the A1’s 256 x 256 x 256 mm build volume fits a full unit of 10 Stormcast Eternals on a 0.16mm layer height, including supports. The 10,000mm/s² acceleration makes short work of long infantry sprints.
Active motor noise canceling sounds like marketing fluff until you put the printer in the same room as a TV. The A1 measures roughly 48dB at full speed — quiet enough for apartment use during evening painting sessions.
PLA vs PETG for miniatures
For painted infantry, PLA is the standard. It sands cleanly, takes primer well, and produces sharp details at 0.12mm. PETG is tougher and slightly more heat-resistant, which helps if you game in warm venues or transport models in cars. PETG’s layer adhesion is stringier and harder to clean up — for tabletop painting, PLA wins on prep speed.
If you print vehicles or large terrain, PLA-CF (carbon-fiber-reinforced) gives you the rigidity of PETG without the stringiness, but requires a hardened nozzle.
Best use cases
Multi-color chapter icons, base decoration, and terrain prints that benefit from color blending. Hobbyists running a single printer for both infantry and terrain will appreciate the A1’s broad filament support and quiet operation. Skip this if you primarily need resin-level detail.
5. Creality K2 Combo — Best for Large Terrain
+ The Good
- Up to 16-color multi-color printing via 4 CFS units
- 95% pre-assembled for a near plug-and-play experience
- Silent mode rivals a quiet laptop typing
- Smart auto-leveling probes only the target print area for speed
- AI camera watches for spaghetti/idling failures in real time
- The Bad
- Several users report CFS jamming
- adhesion failures
- and clogs despite multi-color
- 2.4GHz Wi-Fi only - 5GHz networks force USB printing
- Some buyers experienced defective parts (e.g.
- power cord) out of the box
- Spool holders require 1kg spools or printed adapters for smaller reels
If you print Imperial Titans, modular terrain boards, or castle walls for Age of Sigmar, the K2 Combo’s 260 x 260 x 260 mm build volume is the headline feature. A Bastion wall section that takes two prints on a Saturn 3 comes off the K2 in one shot.
The 16-color system (4 CFS units) is genuinely the most flexible multi-color setup in this price range. I printed a fully colored Imperial Fist drop pod — yellow shell, black trim, red seals, white chapter icons — in a single overnight run.
The K2 Combo is 95% pre-assembled. I removed it from the box, snapped on the spool holders and gantry, leveled the bed (about 8 minutes via smart auto-leveling), and printed my first test cube. Setup time: under 25 minutes total.
The AI camera with spaghetti detection earned its keep on a 14-hour terrain printout when filament changed and was needed. The camera flagged it via app notification, and I paused the job before a complete failure.
Multi-color and CFS reliability
The 4 CFS units enable 16-color printing, but reliability varies. Of 1,450 owners, the 3.9/5 average reflects a real share of CFS jamming and adhesion failures. I had one CFS jam during testing; reseating the spool and recalibrating the feed path fixed it. Treat the multi-color setup as an advanced feature and run single-color backup prints during learning.
Plan on using ethernet or USB if your home network is 5GHz only — the K2 Combo’s Wi-Fi is 2.4GHz.
Best use cases
Hobbyists printing large terrain boards, modular buildings, and vehicles, plus multi-color print enthusiasts who want everything in one job. Skip this if you primarily print 28mm infantry and want maximum detail — the resin options deliver sharper results.
6. Bambu Lab P1S — Best Enclosed Enthusiast FDM
Bambu Lab P1S 3D Printer, Ready-to-Use FDM 3D Printer
500mm/s
Fully enclosed
16-color AMS
15-minute setup
+ The Good
- Top-ranked number 1 in 3D Printers category with strong 4.4/5 average
- 500mm/s speed with 20
- 000 mm/s² acceleration for fast production
- Enclosed design improves performance for advanced filaments
- Multi-color up to 16 colors when paired with Bambu Lab AMS
- 15-minute setup with automatic bed leveling
- The Bad
- Multi-color requires a separate AMS purchase
- Not recommended for carbon/glass fiber reinforced filaments
The Bambu Lab P1S sits at the top of Amazon’s 3D printer best-seller list, and after testing it’s easy to see why. The fully enclosed chamber, 500mm/s speed, and broad filament support make it the most versatile single FDM printer you can buy today for Warhammer work.
Enclosed chamber printing matters for ABS and ASA. Warhammer vehicles printed in ABS hold up to drops and rough handling far better than PLA. On the P1S, I printed a Rhino chassis in ABS at 0.16mm with zero warping — the same print failed on an open-frame Ender 3.
Setup took 15 minutes. Automatic bed leveling, a quick filament load, and the Bambu Studio slicer walked me through the first print with clear on-screen prompts. The AMS multi-color add-on enables up to 16 colors for full chapter heraldry on a single model.
The 20,000mm/s² acceleration means infantry sprints finish quickly. A squad of 10 Necron Warriors came off the bed in just under 3 hours at 0.12mm layer height — fast enough that I queued a second squad the same afternoon.
Filament support and limitations
Bambu Lab explicitly does not recommend carbon-fiber or glass-fiber reinforced filaments on the P1S. For tougher terrain, PLA-CF or PETG-CF prints need a hardened nozzle upgrade. Standard PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, ASA, PA, and PC all work out of the box.
The AMS for multi-color is sold separately and adds noticeable cost. If you mostly print single-color infantry and terrain, the P1S alone is excellent value.
Best use cases
Enthusiasts who want one enclosed FDM that handles every filament type reliably, painters working with ABS-based vehicle models, and hobbyists building up to AMS multi-color workflows. Skip this if you primarily need resin detail or a smaller footprint.
7. FLASHFORGE AD5M — Best Budget FDM
FLASHFORGE AD5M 3D Printer Fully Auto Calibration Print with 1-Click Max 600mm/s Speed, All-Metal CoreXY Structure Precise Printing, Easy-Maintenance Quick-Swap Nozzle, Print Size 220x220x220mm
All-metal CoreXY
600mm/s
Quick-swap nozzle
220mm cubic build
+ The Good
- Strong value under $250 with quick out-of-box setup (15-20 minutes)
- All-metal CoreXY delivers precise high-speed prints
- 3-second tool-free quick-swap nozzle with multiple diameters
- Resume after power-outage and flexible PEI build plate
- Multi-printer network monitoring via Orca-flashforge slicer
- The Bad
- Wi-Fi connectivity can be inconsistent - ethernet recommended
- Branding filament performs noticeably better than third-party filament
- Heating is slower than some competing models
The AD5M punches above its weight class. For under $250, you get an all-metal CoreXY frame, 600mm/s peak speed, and the same one-click auto-leveling found on more expensive machines. It’s the printer I’d recommend to a friend who wants to test the FDM hobby waters without a big commitment.
Setup was the fastest in this entire roundup — 15 minutes from box to first test cube. The PEI steel plate handles PLA and PETG without glue or hairspray, and supports pop off cleanly with minimal scarring.
For Warhammer terrain, the 220 x 220 x 220 mm build volume is enough for most modular buildings. I printed a 200mm tall Manufactorum tower section with overhanging buttresses at 0.2mm in about 6 hours, with clean adhesion throughout.
The Orca-flashforge slicer supports multi-printer network monitoring, which is a useful feature if you eventually expand to two printers (one resin, one FDM) running in parallel.
Tradeoffs at this price
Wi-Fi connectivity is genuinely flaky. Plan on using ethernet or USB for reliable file transfers. FlashForge-branded filament also prints noticeably more reliably than third-party spools in my testing — budget for OEM filament initially, then experiment with alternatives once you’re comfortable.
Bed heating is slower than competitors — a 60°C heated bed takes about 4 minutes from cold. Not a dealbreaker, but worth noting if you print in batches.
Best use cases
Budget-conscious hobbyists, first-time FDM owners, and anyone printing PLA terrain at moderate volumes. Skip this if you need maximum speed (the K1C is faster) or enclosed-chamber ABS support.
8. Anycubic Kobra X — Fast Multi-Color Switching
Anycubic Kobra X Multicolor 3D Printer, Easy Setup, Native 4-Color
Native 4-color
19 colors with ACE 2 Pro
600mm/s
49-point leveling
+ The Good
- Native 4-color (expandable to 19) with reduced purging waste
- Up to 600mm/s print speed with hardened steel nozzle and vibration compensation
- LeviQ 3.0 49-point auto leveling for consistent first layers
- Quiet operation suitable for home office/classroom environments
- Dual-band Wi-Fi (2.4G/5G) plus LAN and AI camera for remote monitoring
- The Bad
- Filament spools are not included in the package
- Some users report print head failures and clogging issues
The Kobra X is the most approachable multi-color FDM in this roundup. With 4 built-in filament slots and the option to expand to 19 colors via ACE 2 Pro add-ons, it removes the usual multi-material intimidation factor.
The 49-point LeviQ 3.0 auto leveling is genuinely thorough. I queued a 6-color banner print with chapter symbols, scrollwork, and base trim — every color transition landed cleanly on the model without the typical first-layer banding issues I’ve seen on cheaper multi-color machines.
For Warhammer, the 300°C hardened steel nozzle handles PLA, PETG, and PLA-CF blends without a separate nozzle swap. The 260 x 260 x 260 mm build volume matches the K2 Combo and is large enough for a squad of vehicles on a single plate.
Dual-band Wi-Fi (both 2.4G and 5G) plus LAN is a small but important detail — most budget multi-color printers only support 2.4G. The Anycubic App’s remote monitoring is reliable for long overnight prints.
Filament sourcing and reliability
Filament spools are not included, so budget for 4 spools of PLA or PETG before your first multi-color print. The vibration compensation keeps ringing under control at 600mm/s, but I’ve seen a small share of owners report print head failures after a couple of months — keep the warranty paperwork and test early prints thoroughly.
Among 260 reviews the average is 4.2/5, with the most common complaint being clogging after extended multi-color use.
Best use cases
Multi-color chapter icon and trim printing, hobbyists who want to add color without the complexity of a Bambu AMS, and anyone who needs both 2.4G and 5G Wi-Fi. Skip this if you mostly print single-color infantry and want the lowest entry price.
9. ELEGOO Saturn 3 — Best Resin Build Volume for Squads
ELEGOO Saturn 3 MSLA 12K 3D Printer
12K mono LCD
218 x 123 x 250 mm
Fresnel COB light
9H glass
+ The Good
- 12K mono LCD with 19 x 24 micron XY resolution for exceptional detail
- 9H tempered glass protects the LCD from resin damage
- Fresnel collimating lens delivers highly uniform 405 nm light
- Large build volume (218.88 x 122.88 x 250 mm) for ambitious projects
- Laser-carved build plate improves print adhesion
- The Bad
- Heavier and larger footprint than entry-level resin printers
- Some users may prefer third-party slicers over Voxeldance Tango
The Saturn 3 is the resin printer I reach for when I need to print a full squad in one batch. Its 218 x 123 x 250 mm build volume fits 8 to 10 Primaris Marines with supports, depending on pose, which is roughly double what entry-level resin printers handle.
The 12K mono LCD with 19 x 24μm XY resolution captures crisper detail than 4K printers, particularly on faces, purity seals, and weapon filigree. Side by side, a Space Marine Captain printed on the Saturn 3 has visibly cleaner Aquila icons than the same STL on a 4K Mono 2.
The Fresnel collimating lens is the standout technical feature. Older resin printers used single LEDs that produced visible “striping” on curved surfaces. The Saturn 3’s COB light source delivers over 90% light uniformity with sub-0.5% scatter coefficient, and the result is visibly smoother surfaces on hero models.
The 9H tempered glass LCD protector is a long-term cost saver — accidental resin drips or a botched vat scrape don’t immediately destroy the LCD. The Saturn 3 is heavier than entry-level resin machines at 33 pounds, so plan on a sturdy workbench spot.
Resin workflow and ventilation
The Saturn 3 ships with Voxeldance Tango slicer, but the open-source GOO format is compatible with CHITUBOX and Lychee — both of which I prefer for Warhammer pre-supported STLs.
For ventilation, the Saturn 3 is best placed near a window with a small inline extractor fan. Reddit r/PrintedWarhammer users frequently cite ventilation as the #1 difference between a pleasant hobby and a miserable one, especially in small hobby rooms.
Best use cases
Hobbyists printing full infantry squads in one batch, anyone upgrading from a Mars 5 to more build volume, and painters who need sharp detail on hero models. Skip this if you primarily print small RPG figures or want a compact desktop resin printer.
10. ELEGOO Mars 5 — Best Entry-Level Resin
ELEGOO Mars 5 Resin 3D Printer
4K mono LCD
One-click leveling
Residue detection
COB light
+ The Good
- One-click auto leveling makes first-time resin printing accessible
- Smart mechanical sensor detects residue to protect the LCD
- Resin shortage and leveling failure alarms prevent wasted material
- 4K mono LCD with COB light source produces intricate detail
- Overheat protection adds safety and extends component life
- The Bad
- Smaller build volume limits larger models
- Some users report touchscreen responsiveness quirks
The Mars 5 is the resin printer I’d recommend to someone buying their very first 3D printer. The one-click auto leveling removes the most intimidating part of resin setup, and the smart mechanical sensor catches residue before it ruins your LCD.
I printed a Space Marine Lieutenant on the Mars 5 with the standard 0.05mm layer height. Faces, weapon trim, and purity seals came out sharper than I’d expect at this price point — competitive with older $400 machines.
The COB light source delivers uniform 405nm curing with minimal layer striping. For an entry-level machine, that’s a meaningful upgrade over older Mars 3 and Mars 4 models with single-LED arrays.
Overheat protection halts printing if the LCD or driver board exceeds 80°C, which adds a layer of safety for long overnight prints. Resin shortage and leveling failure alarms prevent the most common newbie mistakes — running out of resin mid-batch or printing with an unleveled bed.
Starter bundle and resin safety
The Mars 5 doesn’t include a wash-and-cure station. Add a Mercury XS or Elegoo Mercury Plus bundle to your first order. You also need nitrile gloves, paper towels, and IPA (isopropyl alcohol) for cleanup. Plan on at least $60 in accessories beyond the printer.
Standard ABS-like resin from Elegoo, Siraya Tech, or Phrozen works well for Warhammer infantry. Mix in 20% Siraya Tech Tenacious for tougher models like vehicle tracks and weapon arms.
Best use cases
First-time resin printer owners, RPG character printers, and anyone testing the resin hobby before committing to a larger machine. Skip this if you need to print squads in one batch — the Mars 5’s build volume is best for individual heroes and small units.
Resin vs FDM for Warhammer Armies
The Warhammer printing decision really comes down to what you print most: infantry and characters, or terrain and vehicles. Resin MSLA printers like the Saturn 3 and Photon Mono 4 produce the sharp 28mm detail that makes tabletop models look professionally painted. FDM printers like the K1C and Bambu A1 trade that detail for speed, larger build volumes, and zero IPA cleanup.
For pure Warhammer 40k and Age of Sigmar infantry at 28mm scale, resin wins on detail. Reddit r/PrintedWarhammer’s consensus is that any modern Elegoo Mars, Saturn, or Anycubic Photon Mono “absolutely blows away anything you can produce with an FDM printer” for miniatures. A primed FDM Marine is recognizable; a primed resin Marine looks like it’s already been painted.
For terrain, vehicles, and large scatter pieces, FDM wins on build volume and material toughness. A $0.30 spool of PLA prints a 200mm tall terrain piece that would require multiple resin prints and significant post-processing. Vehicles printed in ABS on an enclosed FDM like the Bambu P1S hold up to drops and rough gaming nights far better than resin.
The mature hobbyist setup runs both: a resin printer for infantry and characters, an FDM printer for terrain. Many r/PrintedWarhammer users run this dual-printer workflow, with the FDM handling buildings and scatter, the resin handling every figure on the tabletop.
PETG vs PLA: for Warhammer miniatures specifically, PLA is easier to sand and prime, while PETG is tougher and more heat-resistant. For terrain, PLA-CF (carbon-fiber-reinforced) gives you PETG-like rigidity without the stringiness, but requires a hardened nozzle.
Buying Guide: How to Choose the Right 3D Printer for Warhammer
Buying a 3D printer for Warhammer isn’t just about specs — it’s about matching the printer to the kind of models you’ll print most. Here are the five factors that matter most, drawn from our testing and the broader r/PrintedWarhammer community.
Resolution and XY Pixel Size
For Warhammer infantry at 28mm and 32mm heroic scale, you need an XY pixel size below 25μm to capture clean faces and weapon filigree. Modern 4K resin printers deliver 35μm pixels, 8K delivers 22μm, 10K delivers 17μm, and 12K+ delivers 19μm or finer.
FDM layer height is a different metric — 0.12mm is the practical floor for visible detail, and 0.16mm is the standard for tabletop models. Anything coarser looks faceted after priming.
Build Volume for Squads vs Vehicles
A squad of 10 Primaris Marines needs roughly 150 x 80 x 60 mm of build volume with supports. A Rhino or Land Raider needs 250 x 150 x 100 mm. Modular terrain boards can run much larger.
Resin printers with smaller build volumes (Mono 4, Mars 5) are best for characters and small units. The Saturn 3’s 218 x 123 x 250 mm volume fits a full infantry squad in one batch. FDM machines generally offer larger cubic volumes for terrain work.
Wash and Cure Workflow
Every resin print needs to be washed in IPA (or water for water-washable resin) and post-cured under UV light before painting. A dedicated wash-and-cure station like the Mercury XS or Elegoo Mercury Plus is mandatory for resin printing.
Budget an extra $80 to $200 for the station, plus nitrile gloves, paper towels, and IPA. Resin is messy and toxic until cured — never skip the gloves or the ventilation.
Legal Considerations for Printing Warhammer Proxies
Games Workshop does not authorize 3D-printed copies of their IP. Hobbyists use proxy and 3rd-party STL files from designers on Patreon, MyMiniFactory, and Cults3D instead of directly copying Games Workshop sculpts. This is a common and accepted hobby practice, but be aware you’re printing unofficial sculpts that represent game-legal units via WYSIWYG tabletop rules.
For official tournament play, check with your local organizer about proxy rules — most casual and many competitive events accept well-printed proxies, but some GW store events require authentic plastic.
Starter Bundle Cost Breakdown
The real entry cost for resin printing is higher than the printer alone. For a complete starter setup, budget the printer plus a wash-and-cure station, 1 liter of resin, nitrile gloves, IPA, and a small ventilation fan. FDM starter costs are lower — just add filament and a build plate adhesive.
Pre-supported STLs from Patreon creators and MyMiniFactory save significant prep time. Look for files tagged “Warhammer proxy,” “40k,” or “Age of Sigmar” and verify the designer’s license before downloading.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best 3D printer for Warhammer armies?
The Creality K1C is the best 3D printer for Warhammer armies overall because its 600mm/s CoreXY speed and tri-metal nozzle handle both infantry PLA prints and PETG terrain at high quality. For pure resin detail on infantry and characters, the ELEGOO Saturn 3 with its 12K LCD and large build volume is the resin workhorse most hobbyists reach for.
Can you legally 3D print Warhammer models?
Games Workshop does not authorize 3D-printed copies of their intellectual property, so hobbyists print unofficial proxy and third-party STL files from designers on Patreon, MyMiniFactory, and Cults3D instead. This is widely accepted in the tabletop community for casual play and most tournaments, though some Games Workshop store events require authentic plastic miniatures.
Is it legal to 3D print Warhammer?
Yes, printing unofficial proxy miniatures for personal use is legal in most jurisdictions. The hobbyist norm is to use STL files from third-party designers who create their own original sculpts themed around Warhammer factions, rather than directly copying Games Workshop’s official models.
Should I get a resin or FDM printer for Warhammer?
Get a resin printer if you primarily print 28mm or 32mm infantry and characters — resin delivers sharper detail on faces, weapons, and armor trim. Get an FDM printer if you primarily print terrain, vehicles, and large scatter pieces, or if you want minimal post-processing and lower material costs. Many serious hobbyists run both printers in parallel.
Is PETG better than PLA for Warhammer miniatures?
For Warhammer miniatures, PLA is usually better than PETG because it sands cleanly, takes primer well, and produces sharp details at 0.12mm layer height. PETG is tougher and more heat-resistant, which helps for vehicles or terrain pieces used in warm venues, but its stringier layer adhesion makes cleanup harder on small infantry details.
Which is better for Warhammer 40k miniatures, resin or plastic?
Resin 3D printing delivers far sharper detail than FDM plastic for Warhammer 40k miniatures — sub-25 micron XY pixels on modern MSLA printers capture faces, purity seals, and weapon filigree that FDM cannot match. FDM plastic wins on speed, build volume, and material toughness for terrain and vehicles, but for infantry at tabletop scale, resin is the clear winner.
Final Verdict: Which 3D Printer Should You Buy for Warhammer?
After three months of testing ten printers specifically for Warhammer armies, our pick for the best 3D printer for Warhammer armies is the Creality K1C. It strikes the best balance between PLA infantry detail, PETG and ABS terrain capability, and the speed to print a full squad in a weekend. For hobbyists who already know they want resin-level detail on infantry and characters, the ELEGOO Saturn 3 is the resin machine we’d buy first, and pairing it with a budget FDM like the FLASHFORGE AD5M covers terrain for a complete army workshop.
Whichever printer you choose, plan the full starter bundle before you check out — a wash-and-cure station for resin, nitrile gloves, IPA, ventilation, and at least 1 liter of resin or two spools of PLA. Our guides on the best resin 3D printers for miniatures and the best 3D printers for miniatures dive deeper into resin and FDM picks if you want to compare beyond this list. For larger-format production work, our best professional 3D printers guide covers higher-end options. If you’re also printing cosplay armor and props alongside Warhammer terrain, our cosplay 3D printer roundup is worth a look.
Welcome to the hobby, and may your squads print clean on the first try.
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